MILOS: SNORKELLING ON THE ISLAND THAT SOCIAL MEDIA RUINED

Papafragas Beach - Milos Island

It was not that long ago that you could fly into Athens Airport with little fuss and, having wandered through passport control via flight connections, you could watch bemused as stressed crowds of tourists from every far flung part of Europe and beyond, huffed and puffed past you, as they dashed in crazed fashion to make their connections to the Instagrammers favourite destinations of Mykonos, Santorini and Kefalonia. You meanwhile, could saunter along to a small check-in gate in the lower levels of the airport. And here, save for a few old hippies and and elderly couples in matching jackets and Panama hats, you could relax at the deserted gate whilst waiting to board your tiny little plane to a Island few had heard of and even fewer had visited; Milos.

Ah Milos! The island of limbless statues, bleached white lunar-landscape beaches, rocky coves and tranquil paths. A place you could travel around slowly, partaking of  modest spinach and cheese pies at a rustic tavernas and perhaps drink a cold, if somewhat fizzy beer, whilst watching the sun sink gently into a darkening sea. A paradise, a haven, a little utopia far from the madding crowd. 

There were of  course a few downsides to visiting the island of the Venus De Milo in the near past. Tourist infrastructure outside the main port of Adamantas was limited. There were few bars and the local tavernas insisted on serving you traditional home made fayre just like "Mama used to make". This would of course be great if "Mama" had been a Michelin starred chef but in most cases "Mama", tended to be the worst cook in the world. Either that or none of her family could read her recipes properly. 

The upside, though,  was that the island was an idyllic landscape of peace and quiet. You could, in fact, arrive at any of the beaches at anytime of day and chances are you would be the only ones there. Now however, the double-edged sword of social media has cleaved its relentless way across the island. Fuelled by big brand fashion labels using the lunar landscape of Sarakiniko as a backdrop for their photo shoots in 2021, the inevitable travel vloggers,  Instagram crowd and Tiktokers have picked up on the fashionista vibe and turning their backs on their former favourite destinations descended locust like on Milos. In particular the Island has become a must visit place for Americans who now seem to make up the majority of visitors to the island - at times it was the only accent that was audible in the throng.

This influx of visitors has had a significant impact on the island. New hotels and apartments have sprung up with frightening speed; there are more bars, more tavernas, more cafes, more taxis and more boats you can hire for day trips. Every beach, every viewing point or place of interest now reverberates with the sound of tourists traipsing here there and everywhere and yet, as these are the self appointed selfie-celebrities none of them are really seeing anything or even experiencing anything. Instead of photographing a picturesque church they are simply photographing themselves standing outside the picturesque church. That traditional meal that "Mama used to make". Well, now its just the foreground of another picture of another grinning Instagrammer pretending they are eating the finest meal that the land of Greece has ever proffered up.   

Beaches, bars, cafes, boats and pavements are infested with their ilk all being the main protagonist in their own movies, imploring the rest of us to believe that they are having a great time on a great island with their great friends or, at least, a better time than the rest of us mere mortals could ever have. The island is no longer a beautiful tranquil haven to appreciate and unwind in, rather it is just the backdrop for endless self promotion. An advert for your lifestyle and of course that new lip filler to sell to your doting audience. It's all very odd. And to be honest, it must be incredibly exhausting to endlessly pretend that your so excited about everything that you eat, drink, see, smell, wear, drive or inject into your forehead, that it needs to be endlessly recorded for the world to see and comment on. 

This of course is not a new phenomenon. The in-crowd have always flocked like hungry pigeons to whichever place happens to be the most fashionable to be seen in, but does their presence actually make anything or anywhere better? Well, as mentioned, there are new and expensive hotels and apartments and the bars and tavernas needed to cater to the new influx have appeared alongside and I doubt the local business owners are complaining about their bank balances but got better? In short. No. Instead it's just got busier and more expensive. 

Those tranquil, deserted beaches we spoke of, well they're now crowded from early morning to late afternoon. The tavernas', even those serving the most mediocre of fayre are so busy that you have to often book a table long in advance. Gone are the days of the lazy drive on deserted roads and carefree strolls along sandy beaches, the sound of water lapping shore being the only disturbance heard in the still, warm air. Now though, everything's a rush. The crowds, cameras poised like weapons, rush to be seen here and there, to photograph themselves eating breakfast and sipping coffee,  film themselves driving along roads thick with traffic, before sunbathing and splashing in the sea with the other selfie obsessed and then back to the hotel to film the skin regime and make up tips before heading out to do the video at that restaurant, you know the one, that place where everyone whose anyone goes to eat Greek stuff and watch the sun go down. And then to bed, but not before shooting your pre-sleep film -  phew! It's tiring stuff all this influencing.

So, if it's all now crowded, noisy and full of Media cultists, what's the point of visiting the place then! Granted, you have to accept that the tranquillity of the place has been lost to history but for the adventurous snorkeller, Milos still has a lot to offer. From the shipwreck at Sarakiniko to the coves and caves of Papafragas and the rocks of Pollonia beach, the underwater world can offer some peaceful respite from the hustle and bustle of the Instagrammers dystopia. 

So here's the lowdown.

First the accommodation. Whatever you do, avoid Adamantas or Adamas as it's known. This is the main port of the island and is a heaving, crowded world of ferry passengers, freight lorries and the scourge of all Greek Islands, lounge bars. These bars surround the sea front like lurking predators. We can't express our horror at lounge bars, they are like entering one of the circles or hell and must be avoided at all costs. Instead head North to Pollonia or the village of Plaka. We prefer Pollonia, particularly the very northern tip around Pollonia beach. It is more expensive here than the downmarket prices of Adamas but the accommodation is far better as are the views and the ease of access to the best snorkelling areas.  

Do my lips look plumper in this picture?

Second, the beaches: the best are Pollonia beach, Papafragas, and Sarakiniko. Pollonia beach is particularly good around Poseidon rock, the water being accessed easily near the Apollon apartments and White Pebble Suites, amongst others. Here you will often catch site of Turtles gently swimming by, along with the ubiquitous shoals of Sea Bream, Damsel fish, Sarpa and Parrot fish. The algae covered rocks are also home to Blennies and Harlequin fish. The more observant of you may also catch site of Moray eels lurking amongst the nooks and crannies. The presence of these creatures, whether seen or not, means that it's always wise to be aware of where you are putting you hands. Morays aren't inherently dangerous to snorkellers unless provoked, but if they are they can be very aggressive and are capable of doing serious damage. A Moray eel bite is extremely painful and although not venomous their bite can lead to serious infections and complications, so caution must always be taken around these creatures.

Mediterranean Moray eel amongst the rocks of Pollonia Beach

In Papafragas and Sarakiniko you'll find similar fish species and if you're lucky you will see flat fish and cuttlefish semi-buried in the sand. Around all rocky areas keep your eyes out for fan worms, nudibranchs (soft-bodied marine molluscs), starfish and Sea cucumbers, In the caves and coves of Papafragas you'll also find thick-lipped mullet and thick shoals of juvenile sardines and the young fry of other species. 

All these beaches are in the North located along the coast road between Pollonia and Plaka. Papafragas is much easier reached by by travelling from Pollonia past Papafragas itself and taking the next right turn into the village between Pachena beach and Papafragas. Once parked, walk directly east to the large rocky shoreline. This means you will avoid the main Papafragas cove which, although picturesque, is quite narrow and not particularly good for entry or exit. 

One of the caves at Papafragas Beach

Pollonia Beach view from White Pebbles Suites

Sarakiniko has a well sign posted turning on your right as you travel from Pollonia. Be aware that sea life is most active in the early morning and late afternoon when conditions are more favourable for feeding. As the temperatures in the shallows rise then some species are driven into the deeper cooler waters.. So you should arrive early and we mean very early. 7am is the best time for the morning so you can get in and out of the water before the mid morning rush when the whole place will be worse than a public swimming pool in the school holidays as the social the media set descend to splash and preen and generally get in the way of everything and drive the marine life further off shore. 

A word of warning. Just as the island attracts the shore based crowd it also attracts the richer water borne tourist as well. So whenever your snorkelling please be aware of motorboats, catamarans and sail boats that often cruise into secluded coves. Always use a surface buoy to alert sailors to your presence and wear bright rash vests or wetsuits when possible. Also keep close to rocky areas when boats are around as there is no guarantee that the skippers of these vessels are paying attention to a bobbing head in the water, so best to be safe rather than sorry. As we say, be early, as boat captains and day trippers don't tend to be early risers either.

Beware boats entering secluded coves and bays -  always use a diver down or swimming buoy

There are a large number of beaches to the south of the Island and these are reached by road and dirt tracks from Adamantas, just head for the airport, past the quarry and follow the signs.  These Southern sites are the beaches of Fyriaplaka, Tsigradro, Gerontas and Kalomos amongst others. All are Sandy (sand ruins visibility) and with the exception of Tsigrado all are commercialised. Tsigrado though is not for the feint of heart, as it can only be accessed via precarious route of ladder and rope. Once reached however, the beach is somewhat of a disappointment, being a little more than a narrow gorge and, being small, even half a dozen people can make the place feel crowded.

We have spotted cuttlefish at Fyriplaka in the early morning, but due to the boat renting operation on this beach along with kayaking and other water sports it does not really have much to offer the snorkeller. However, if the wind is blowing strongly from the north and the snorkelling sites of Sarakiniko et al are not accessible, then a trip south for lazy day on the beach isn't too much hardship. 

A juvenile Cuttlefish speeds across the sand at Fyriplaka - very early morning

So what about the Après Snorkel? Well here lies a problem. Yes, the island has lots of tavernas, restaurants and cafes and there are even one of two (non-lounge bar) bars to sip a few cold ones but most are very mediocre and the ones that aren't can be eye wateringly expensive. Now before anyone gets on our case about Greek food particularly Jon from Samos judging by his previous comments,  let's be clear, we do like Greek food. A well prepared traditional Stifado or Kleftiko can be a treat to the taste buds and when it comes to putting cheese on salad the Greeks have their name all other that one. But there is only so much Feta and Olive oil you can eat and we know it's "Mama's recipe" but it tastes exactly like the stuff served next door -  perhaps "Mama is moonlighting"?  Oh and for some reason, you can't actually get a Stifado or Klefitiko that easily. You can get a stuffed burger patty, the ubiquitous Souvlaki skewer and for some reason Salmon! I mean Salmon in Greece, not exactly straight off the local boat for that one. 

Anyway, what we are saying is that we occasionally like a change, which is the problem, as most of the Taverna's don't! If you what to delve into the world of Greek cooking there are plenty of choices, some good and some bad, you pays your money and you takes your choice so to say. However  if you are staying in Pollonia there are a couple of additions just to mix things up a bit. 

Firstly there is Hanabi, the name means fireworks in Japanese and the restaurant labels itself as seaside sushi.  Yeah, we know, it sounds like one of those whelk stalls you used to find in a British seaside town where each meal came with a disclaimer and the telephone number of the local hospital. But don't let that put you off, this place is very good and offers a distinctively different way to eat the local catch of the day with everything from Sashimi, Sushi, Gyoza (dumplings) to main courses of Teriyaki and a rather good Spicy Ramen. The waiters here will all so warn you about the Salmon, advising you that it is shipped in from Scandinavia so isn't fresh before they go on to tell you about their signature sushi rolls, two of which contain Salmon....! This place isn't traditional Japanese in any sense but rather Japanese inspired but they make a good effort, the food is good as is the presentation and and ambience.

Beware though, Hanabi is not cheap and you can easily rack up a bill in excess of 100 euros in very little time. That said though, most of the restaurants in the area will charge you upwards of 60 euros for two with drinks and some considerably more. 

Hanabi Pollonia

The next idea and we know that Jon from Samos is going to get hot under the collar on this, you should try Jordan's pizza. This used to be steak house and a damn good one too but now they do Pizza and they're pretty good at that as well. You can get all the standard pizza's plus a few specials along with Pasta, various salads and sides. The pizza's are not small so one pizza between two people is more that enough for anyone barring the biggest appetites. A meal for two with starters, a side and  drinks will set you back around 40 - 50m euros. 

Finally there is the Enalion Restaurant, which we were told was one of, if not the best that Pollonia has to offer. It serves regular Greek fayre and you definitely have to book if you want to eat at a reasonable time. On the night we visited the wind was blowing quite hard so sitting outside by the beach was like being sand blasted from time to time but the food was fine if a little bland - though the Shrimp Saganaki was nice. Again prices were upwards of 60 euros for two with drinks. 

Its worth noting that the trend for dining on the beach has taken off big time in Milos but really? Sand in your food and drink? It's not that romantic is it and lets face it, not that original either. Beach dining is for calm nights only - so avoid September when it can get distinctly windy in Milos.  

Choices for breakfast or light lunches get better during the day with various cafes being open. Try breakfast or lunch in the Deck overlooking the bay and at night you can sup a few drinks at the Cactus bar or if you are more in the mood for some hippiesh or somewhat eclectic music choices to accompany your after dinner drinks try the Opsidanos Art Cafe and Bar further up the bay towards the White Pebble Suites. This open all day from 11am to late and offers food as well as drink. A little further up and to the left there is also the Apollon bar located in the Apollon apartments which over looks the rocks and is a great place to watch the sunset from. 

Of course, no matter where you go the Social Media crowd won't be far behind or in some cases have already beaten you there. It really is a lament to say that the Island has been ruined. Still, as with all things trendy, they come and go and perhaps soon the crowds will find a new a place to flock to and the island of Venus returns once more to a place of tranquil calm. Until then, if you haven't snorkelled here its definitely worth a look, but for us, for now, we'll head somewhere else - somewhere less in with the in-crowd!

Look at me, looking at you, looking at me, oh an influencers day on the beach for me!

Flights to Milos connect out of Athens with Aegean and SkyExpress

There are also regular ferry sailings from Piraeus Harbour, Athens

One last word on travel to Milos. The airport on the island is small and check-in for return flights to Athens is a bit of a palaver. Also if the wind is a little strong or blowing from the wrong direction then flights to and from Athens cannot take off or land. 

The Check-in staff will also not tell you about any of this until the last minute and the information boards are often wrong or not updated. So please make sure you keep up to date with a relevant flight tracker or your airlines webpage, although Aegean is a little tardy in updating it's information so they are not all ways helpful.

Ferry's to and from Adamantas and Piraeus are quite regular and take around three hours. Tickets for two are around 150 euros one way. But be warned the crossings can be choppy so make sure you have your sea legs at the ready. 

A few additional links

Accommodation via expedia in Pollonia, Plaka etc. We recommend Venia's Guesthouse, The Apollon Apartments and White Pebble Suites, all located near each other. 

Habani, Pollonia

Enalion Restaurant, Pollonia

Beaches in Milos, for the best part of Pollonia avoid the main town beach and head north to the rocky cape by Poseidon rock.

Shipwreck on Milos Island, Greece

Snorkelling The Sicily (Dubai Star)

Located just a few metres off shore from the lunar like beach of Sarakiniko, the Sicily is a popular site for snorkellers of all abilities. The vessel was reported drifting in 2003 North West of Milos Island, finally running aground and breaking up.

It was a sad demise for the vessel. Built by the Furness Shipbuilding Co. Ltd she was launched on 1^st September 1966. Originally called the Esso Purfleet the vessel underwent a number of name changes becoming the Dubai Star in 1986 then the Africa in 1993 and finally in the same year she was renamed the Sicily. The name Dubai Star is still clearly visible on her hull.

A more complete history of the vessel and original photos can be seen here. 

This is a must visit site if you are planning a trip to Milos not only because it's relatively rare for a shipwreck to be so easily accessible to snorkellers but also because there are a number of interesting caves and caverns very close by. A word of warning though, the area becomes very busy with boat trippers, tourist excursions and locals alike so it is best to arrive early and leave early. 

Check out the gallery for more photos.

Samos

A Dangerous Snorkelling Club Quick Guide

Samos is the spiritual home of the D.S.C which is odd considering that it’s not exactly high on the list of snorkelling destinations, but it was where the club was founded so we thought It should be the first in the series of what we are calling ‘quick guides’ to the places we been to. 

  

The History Bit

Like all of the Greek Islands, Samos has a long and turbulent history. According to Greek myth it was the birthplace of Hera, and has been populated by Carians, Pelasgians and Ionians. It grew to glory during the 5^th and 6^th Centuries BC before being dominated by the Persians during the Persian Wars. Later it joined the Athenian Confederacy although this didn’t work out very well for the island as the Athenians laid waste to everything when the locals revolted against the alliance. As the years passed, the island was conquered in turn by the Macedonians, the Ptolemy’s of Egypt, Romans, Franks, Venetians and Genoese. With the fall of Constantinople to the Turks in 1453 the Island was abandoned, the locals fleeing to Chios. The Turks re-populated the Island in the 16^th Century and it remained a Turkish possession until it was reunited with the Greeks in 1912. 

Samos’ main claim to fame, if you disregard being the birthplace of a goddess, is that the philosopher and mathematician Pythagoras was born on the island in 570 BC. Pythagoras, as every schoolboy knows, developed the famous theorem which states that the two sides of a hippopotamus equal the third side. Err…that might be that the square of the hypotenuse is equal to the square of the other two sides…. Anyway triangles or hippopotami apart (old Pythagoras seems to have made a lot of stuff up when he was on the wine) Pythagoras was also famous for his religious teachings about endless cycles of rebirth blah, blah, blah. If you’re into that sort of thing have a look here. A more important claim to fame as far as we are concerned, and one that seems to be generally overlooked, is the bewildering engineering feat of Eupalinos’ water tunnel. Discovered in 1882 the tunnel was an underground aqueduct built to bring water to the ancient capital of Samos (Pythagoreion). More info on the tunnel and its engineer Eupalinos can be found here. The Tunnel is located above Pythagorio and is open to the public, but those of you who are prone to claustrophobia might not enjoy the experience.

The tunnel entrance - breathe in!

 

The Tourist Blurb

Ruins, statues, temples, Byzantium museums etc, etc. Samos has it all, so if that’s your thing you’ll enjoy the Island, although the Temple of Hera near Pythagorio was somewhat disappointing. Samos, like all Greek Islands, is reputed to be the home of world famous wines. These are the same world famous wines that you’ve never heard of or can buy in any shop, supermarket or bar anywhere else in the world. The general rule of world famous island wines is that they come in red, white or pink colours and are very sweet. If you’re a wine connoisseur or a gifted amateur in the field you are going to be very disappointed. Likewise if your tipple is beer then don’t expect too much. There are only three available and all are lagers, Mythos, Alfa and Becks, and all are pretty awful. We opted for Alfa in the end as Mythos is far too gassy and Becks is worse than drinking your own urine. There are the usual rums, vodkas, whisky etc on offer but since Greece joined the Euro these can be just as pricey as anywhere else in Europe so that hangover you’ve got in the morning is going to cost you a lot more than you were expecting. There are a myriad places to stay on the island from four-star hotels to no-star shacks with leaky roofs, so there is plenty of accommodation to suit any taste.

 

Which is the best restaurant?

There aren’t any. All of the restaurants are much the same. They sell the same stuff, cooked the same way and all charge pretty much the same price. If you’re the sort of person who thinks that sticking a lump of goat’s cheese on some salad is contributing to international cuisine then you’ll always find something you’ll like. If however you have higher expectations then we recommend that you go self-catering. You might not be the worlds greatest cook but you’ll find it less irksome preparing your own concoctions than being presented with a bill for a meal that is badly seasoned, badly presented and often burnt at the edges – seriously when we were there they burnt a pizza, a pizza for god’s sake!

Are there any good bars?

No. Most of the bars in Samos Town or Pythagorio are termed lounge bars, this means that they are filled with those terrible garden wicker chairs with garish cushions and glass topped low tables. You slump down amongst the other groups of bored tourists whilst a teenage waiter tries to self you a brightly coloured cocktail with the ubiquitous umbrella, sparkler and half a pound of fruit decorating the rim. There you sit, watching hordes of Italians promenading up down, 1970’s Euro pop insulting your ears whilst wondering what happened to your life? A minute ago you were on holiday, you were having fun, now you are here in this hellhole of mediocrity hoping that one of the sparklers sticks in the teenage waiter’s eye just for some excitement and that the obese woman in the ridiculously tight summer dress would choke on an olive – anything to stop her cackling laughter. Never ever, ever go in a lounge bar, ever! They are the gateway to hell…

Fortunately most of the hotels have bars, which although not the best places to drink in are much better than those you’ll find in the tourist areas, The best of these is the pool bar at the Hotel Evelin. It was here in 2011 that the Club was founded. It is located on the junction of the roads to Chora (Hora) and Ireon. It’s small, friendly and hosted by the irrepressible George and his wife.  The Evelin bar also does a reasonable fry up and a decent Kebab, something that is surprisingly hard to find in Greece.

 

The Snorkelling Bit

The best places for snorkelling are on the north coast of the island between the beaches of Tsamadou, Lemonakia and Kokkari. The beaches at Tsamadou and Lemonakia have the usual sunbeds and beach bar facilities. Tsamadou is something of a nudist beach and is very popular with the locals at weekends so is the least favourable for snorkelling, head to the right around the headland for the best areas. When snorkelling off Lemonakia head towards the left hand section of the cove, here you’ll find caves and rocky outcrops, further round the headland you find a small private beach that provides a decent rest point. As this beach is private property it is best not to loiter too long but on each occasion that we stopped off it was early and there was no else around. The main beach at Kokkari is a windsurfers domain and has very little to offer. Head for the other side of the town itself. Here you will find a beach with no sun beds and no facilities, however there is a basic café bar situated at the top of the steep hill. Snorkel around the other side of the small island where you will find more varied marine life than around the sandy parts of the main beach. In the late morning you should be aware of fishermen who cast their lines from the rocks around the island, it can be surprisingly easy to find a hook suddenly dangling in front of your face. In rough weather all three beaches can be disconcerting to the less experienced snorkeller and are definitely a no go for children.

Like all snorkelling sites it is best to arrive early. Fish are far more active in the morning and having the whole beach to yourself is an added benefit.

The Cove at Lemonakia

The Island at Kokkari

Not everything you find in a cave is a funny coloured rock

Other stuff

 All Greek Islands have mosquitoes but the wetlands behind the main beach at Pythogorion make for a mossie heaven so if you're staying in this area be warned. The airport is also located here so if you're looking to lounge on the beach quietly reading that new bestseller you're in for a nasty surprise – in the high season the surprises come every hour or so. A better beach for lounging about can be found further down the coast at the small fishing village of Ireon, further on is Papas beach, which seems to be the destination of choice for the German tourist. At Ireon you'll also find a small river that feeds into the sea. The brackish water seems to have been colonised by Terrapins who'll appreciate a few titbits from your lunch. A walk in the hills of the island is great when the temperature is low, but if you don’t like insects and things that fly around your head you're probably better off in the myriad boutiques and shops selling their ‘world famous’ local wares.

The Wetlands

The 14:00 to Manchester wrecks the peace

Terrapin City at Ireon

Any comment?

Exposed toes get bitten!

The Statistical Stuff

Located in the Eastern Aegean
Capital - Samos Town
Population - 40, 500 give or take a hundred or so
Area - 476 sq Km
Temperature - Can reach 40 degrees Celsius in high summer but tends to be mid 30's
How to get there - In high summer there are direct charter flights from various European airports, alternatively you can fly from Athens or take a ferry from Piraeus, Paros, the Dodecanese, Cyclades, Crete and Turkey.

There you go Trip Advisor, eat your heart out.