Sunday 31 January 2016

St Mary’s, Scilly Isles: A Dangerous Snorkelling Club Quick Guide

Pelistry Bay, St Mary's
If you were planning a snorkelling trip to the Mediterranean in 2016 then your choice of destinations are becoming rather limited. Greece is still struggling with the economic insanity that took hold way back in 2007 and now its islands, once the choice of tourists from all over Europe, have become the front line in the European migration crisis spilling out of Syria and Iraq. Hardly the destination for a relaxing break then. As for Italy, well it’s a great country, but it’s not renowned for its snorkelling, besides pasta gets boring very quickly. Then there is the Red Sea, a snorkeller's paradise if you like your water warm and tediously calm but, the Syrian conflict is causing even more chaos in the resorts of Egypt and Israel than it is in Greece. The same goes for Turkey, Morocco and Tunisia. So where to go? 
 
Flying to Scilly With SkyBus
Sub-tropical Scilly
Well, if you want pristine beaches, challenging snorkelling, good food and great beer then forget the Mediterranean and Red Sea this year and head west to one of Britain’s best kept secrets. The Scilly Isles are a sprinkling of verdant islands located some 28 miles Southwest of the Cornish coast. There are five inhabited islands in the Archipelago and a horde of smaller, uninhabited islands. Measuring a mere 2.5 square metres, St Mary’s is the central hub of the islands and home to the majority of the Scilly Isles residents. The main focal point is Hugh Town, which sits on an isthmus between two of the Islands beaches. Here you’ll find the Quay, shops, restaurants and four of the Islands five pubs. A short walk away you’ll find the smaller Old Town (the location of the fifth pub) and the Islands tiny airport. Above Hugh Town sits the Garrison, a castle and heavily fortified headland that formed one of Britain’s major defences during the 16th century. The castle itself has been turned into one of the Isles most iconic hotels. With just 9 miles of road but over 30 miles of paths and trails, St Mary’s is a haven of peace and tranquility where you are more at risk of tripping over a birdwatcher crouching in the grass than being knocked off your bike by a car. We could wax lyrical for hours about the deserted beaches of white sand, the ancient archaeological sites, the stunning scenery, the history of the Islands flower trade, the weirdly wonderful characters who’ll drag you into the Scillonian club, buy you beer and insist that you meet their wife. Then there's the wildlife, the farmers who give you a cheery wave in the morning, the boatmen, who at a drop of a hat, will give you a lecture on the Islands Gig racing history, the tourists who’ve returned each and every year since 1970 and, without prompting, will give you a myriad tips on what to do and see and the bloke (who seems to work in every shop and pub on the island ) who’ll insist on giving you a daily briefing on the merits of each pubs burger, but this blog is mainly about the world beneath the waves so let’s get to the snorkelling.

Stuff Burgers! I'll Have The Fish
Does My Bum Look Big In This?
The best snorkelling on St Mary’s is on the remote eastern shore between Pelistry Bay and Bar Point. Here you’ll find forests of kelp, prairies of sea grass and rocky coves that provide a sanctuary to the diverse marine life. The main species you’ll spot are blennys, large wrasse, groupers and Pollock but you’ll often find a range of jellyfish from the fragile and harmless crystal jelly to the more dangerous mauve stinger. The rocks are covered with anemones and a range of colourful sponges and corals. If you’re lucky you might find yourself face to face with less common species of fish and even an inquisitive seal. A word of caution however, the Scilly Isles are located in the Atlantic and are subject to fast currents, large swells and rough water so be prepared. The water around the Islands is always on the cold side, even at the height of summer, so a full wetsuit is a necessity. Encasing yourself in neoprene is also your best defence against the appendages of the mauve stinger that can trail up to a metre or so behind the main body. There are other, more treacherous sites, around the Garrison and beyond Bar Point but these are suitable only for the more experienced and competent snorkeller. In the case of Bar Point, the water here is often murky and it is very easy to find yourself entangled in kelp. The main beaches of Hugh Town are singularly unsuitable for snorkelling due to the large flotillas of boats moving around and the water itself is bereft of any interesting sea life. If you tire of the waters around St Mary’s there are daily boat trips to the Islands of Tresco, Bryher and St Martin’s all of which offer a variety of snorkelling. For the less experienced snorkeller there are organised snorkel trips to St Martin’s where you can get up and close with the Isles seal population.
For the bubble blowers among you, the Scilly Isles offer more diving spots than you can shake a stick at. There are over twenty wrecks around St Mary’s alone. The deep waters around the Islands also attract basking sharks, porpoises and that most elusive of marine creatures, the sunfish.
 
Jewel Anenome
Mauve Stinger
The Spooky Kelp Forests
Emerging From The Cold
Getting Up Close
Small Fry

Can You See Me
Getting around the islands is easy. Being so small, the Islands snorkelling sites are easily reached by foot or you can rent a bike from Hugh Town. For a more leisurely transport option why not hire a golf cart from the Scilly Cart Company.  The Scilly Isles are easily reached by air from Exeter, Newquay and Land’s End Airports. Ferry services to St Mary’s operate daily from Penzance. So put the sunscreen away, pack the wetsuit and get going, you won’t regret it.  

Not Exactly Top Gear - But What A Laugh
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